# Warsaw and Poznań (Nov 2016)



## Don Fatale (Aug 31, 2009)

*Poland in November*

Warsaw: Straszny Dwor
Poznań: Le Nozze di Figaro

I've been to Poland before but never for opera. An enticing prospect encouraged me to make a trip, the classic Polish opera in Poland's foremost house with an acclaimed new production by David Pountney. I was further enticed by the chance to meet up again with our sospiro.

A sunny but near freezing day greeted me at Warsaw Centralna station, which is in the shadow of the famous and rather grand communist skyscraper "Palace of Culture". A fifteen minutes stretch of the legs gets me to Sofitel located across the plaza from State Opera. For the price of a flea pit in London or Amsterdam you get 5 stars in Warsaw. I've been up since 2am so after a quick greeting with sospiro in the hotel lobby I was off to bed for an hour.

Along with almost everything else in Warsaw, The Polish National Opera was flattened in WWII, so this large house is post-war, although with traditional styling as seen in the pic.

*Strasnzy Dwor* (The Haunted Manor) by Stanislav Moniusko was the last opera performed at the old house and the first performed at the current one. It dates from 1865 and musically is in the tuneful French style of Auber and Offenbach. Despite its comedic content the Russian overlords of the day banned it after a few performances due to some underlying seditious themes, although it feels quite innocuous to the ill-informed like me.

Pountney's production which premiered last year, updating the action to the 1930's, is a delight. The haunted portraits on the walls of the manor literally brought to life. Lovely attention to detail. Credit is due to designer Lesley Travers. Sospiro and I were twittering with him after the show.

The high point of the opera, certainly in this production, is the big chorus and polonaise/ballet sequence in the finale, with all performers dressed in patriot red and white costumes. Midway through this sequence there's a rude interruption - a coup-de-theatre - the sound of a bomber overhead, the house lights are flickering, and then a huge shadow of the bomber passes over the stage as audience and performers look skywards just for a moment before the dancing soon resumes. Great symbolism by Pountney.

The following morning after visiting Warsaw's 'Stare Mesto', the flattened old town rebuilt in its exact form after the war, sospiro and I take breakfast. She heads to the matinee (different cast) while I take a train to Poznań, Poland's former capital situated on the Berlin line.

My hotel (Gaja) is ideally situated in walking distance between the railway and the opera. A charming place full of large original artworks, which unlike last night's opera were not haunted. Old world charm but all mod cons. I recommend it.

Sorry to report, the evening's *Le Nozze di Figaro* performance was provincial at its worst, rather dull with not a chuckle heard.

I have all of the following day to fill before my evening flight, but it's Monday which means museum closing day, as in most of continental Europe. I visit the old town square (one of Europe's prettiest), and with the sparce crowd of tourists witness the town hall's midday chimes featuring two goats coming out of their doors to butt head 12 times, just as they've been doing for almost 300 years. I have no idea why! A movie theatre helps fill the rest of my time (Arrival, with Polish subtitles). Poznań airport is a short local bus ride from the city and is a surprising pleasant terminal to linger with good value food and drink on offer.

Poland has an active operatic life, with theatres and companies in the major cities. I saw the two types of opera that you get in Poland and elsewhere, a) new productions of interesting and culturally important works, b) routine repertory performances of the opera mainstays. Polish people - even the children I saw at both performances - dress smartly, so tourists should try to look reasonably smart to fit in.

As with other central European countries, everything remains good value for a western wallet. Poland's cities have a modern infrastructure, are safe and easy to navigate. I hope to return, particularly for interesting operas and productions.


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