# Malta (October 2013)



## Don Fatale (Aug 31, 2009)

Falstaff (Verdi) Aurora Opera Theatre, Victoria, Gozo, Malta 12th October 2013

Presented by The Leone Philharmonic Society Falstaff: Leonardo Lopez-Linares Eva Mei: Alice Anna Skibinsky: Nannetta Gianluca Breda: Pistola Marzio Giossi: Ford

As a regular winter visitor to Malta I was resolved this year to come a little early so I could take in this notable event. A performance two days after Verdi's bicentennial gave me a fan's chance to pay homage to one of my heroes.

This is probably one of the most out of the way opera houses to be found in Europe and one of the most unlikely, being on a Mediterranean Island of just 25,000 people. Each year it hosts a single home-grown production. The Leone Philharmonic Society dates back 150 years, although this annual operatic venture was initiated in 1977 when Madame Butterfly became the first opera ever to be staged on Gozo. Whilst the frontage of their building appears of a similar age to the Society, the hall within is a 1970's creation, and was further refurbished this year. It seats 1600 in a long shoebox (35 rows?) and 3 shallow balconies - boxes throughout. Rather unusually for an opera house, the ground floor public area contains 2 snooker tables and numerous pool tables. You can peruse the trophy cabinet or try to engage the resident parrot in conversation during the intermissions. For this swanky event (dress code: Gala) the tables were covered with boards and used as drinks and bar tables.

With the temperature an unseasonable 31c it was rather sweltering, and I'll spare you further details in this matter in a building without air-con. With 1600 people all heading up the same staircase, the appointed start time passed - the internal photo was taken at 19:29 - and then a slight delay for the arrival of the King of Malta* a statutory 20 minutes late. Strange, I can't remember the Queen delaying operas in Covent Garden for 20 minutes, but this seems to be the norm for Maltese Prime Ministers.

And so with 1600 lady's fans and programs beating frantically, the house lights dim, muted applause for conductor of the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra... after that brief orchestral intro, most of the audience stops talking as the singers commence. I'm at the back in a box next to the Prime Minister, and the projection of orchestra and singers isn't ideal, although seasoned opera-goers know that our ears gradually become attuned to the volume.

The scenery is traditional and painted in warm rustic colours, the costumes generic Ye Olde England. Nothing to offend here. And so to the singers. Decent performers from the European circuit are brought in for the major roles, which I assume they're already familiar with. As my fellow Falstaff fans here will concur, this opera has many fiendishly fast ensembles and orchestral interludes and whilst we'd love them to hit all these moments perfectly, in reality it came down to keeping things simple, slowing up certain passages, and passing blithely through any difficulties without dwelling on them. Clearly the best policy!

There are no surtitles, but most Maltese have good comprehension of Italian, as indicated by chuckles in the appropriate places. My limited Italian knowledge comes from Signores Verdi, Rossini and Co, but I know Falstaff well enough to not need a translation. However, for those hard of hearing the full libretto is printed in the programme - Italian only - and this accounts for part of the speckled blue glow of mobile phones in the stalls below me. Others, like the young lady next to me, were simply texting, which I guess is slightly less annoying than talking to your neighbour as many were.

I’m not qualified to give a definitive account of the singing, but rather than wait for the reviews I’ll give my impressions. I wasn’t a fan of Lopez-Linares in the title role, his wasn’t the biggest voice, and he lacked somewhat in the physical acting aspect. Eva Mei was very assured as Alice, likewise Elisabetta Fiorillo as Quickly. Gianluca Breda made a good impression as Pistola.

The texting young lady next to me disappeared after the first act, but took her seat again halfway through the second, dressed rather fetchingly as a fairy for her scene in Act 3. Very cute, and thankfully without her phone!

I joined some friends in mid-stalls for the 3rd Act and have to say that the audibility was much better. I like to get a balcony seat for a first visit to an opera house, but front stalls is clearly the place to be, and probably fewer mobile phones around you too.

Prices €60-80
Programme: €5 .Excellent content, well worth it.
Food and drink: Inexpensive. This is a full time cafe so plenty on offer.
If you like the idea of autumnal warmth, swimming in the Med followed by a swanky night at the opera, then drinks at the harbourside until the small hours, this is surely the place to be!


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## Belowpar (Jan 14, 2015)

Alexander, I really enjoyed this entry thanks. The forum as a whole is biased away from live performances (that's OK too) but we've had some great visits to Operas in unusual places and they can make a trip really memorable. Never been to Gozo..yet.

Please keep up these travel entries.


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