# Opera in Italy



## Cavaradossi (Aug 2, 2012)

Milano to Napoli, Torino to Venezia - By popular demand, another in the Opera-in series for news, reviews, questions, and discussion about opera in the place where it all began. 

Where have you been? Where are you going? Where would you like to go? What did you eat?


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## Cavaradossi (Aug 2, 2012)

Kicking this off with a link to this currently active discussion about tickets to La Scala:

http://www.talkclassical.com/43089-how-did-you-get.html


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## Don Fatale (Aug 31, 2009)

Excellent! We finally have an Opera in Italy thread. The other 'Opera In...' threads are going strong, and I'm sure this one will too.


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## Cavaradossi (Aug 2, 2012)

For reference, here's a summary of my own experience with Italian houses, with links to my posts on those visits.

2011:
Bologna - Teatro Comunale di Bologna
Florence - Maggio Musicale
Milan - La Scala

2012:
Milan - La Scala - http://www.talkclassical.com/20967-opera-trips-8.html#post385272

2015:
Rome - Baths of Caracalla (Summer outdoor presentations by Rome Opera) - http://www.talkclassical.com/20967-opera-trips-21.html#post916953
Verona - Arena di Verona - http://www.talkclassical.com/20967-opera-trips-21.html#post920348
Milan - La Scala - http://www.talkclassical.com/20967-opera-trips-21.html#post913792

Planned for Summer 2016:
Naples - Teatro San Carlo - We already have our tickets, but tips and thoughts are welcome!


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## Belowpar (Jan 14, 2015)

I hope this thread lives long and brings lots of surprises. Isn't it every Opera lovers dream to see an Opera there?

Our most unusual was at the Greek Amphitheatre in the stunning town of Taomina, Sicily. We had a marvellous holiday and will certainly go back. Taomina is a great base and the setting of the semi circular amphitheatre is perfect with the moon appearing at the back of the stage. Each year a touring company presents two Operas in July. Due to the extreme heat performances start late, so don't dine to well! I've written before how Cav. suffered from a near riot when the tenor's voice broke down due to "dry air", but Traviata the next night was loudly cheered. I wont claim the standards are that high but I've shad much worse evenings in famous houses and it's a lovely thing to do on holiday.

This year Madame Butterfly and an Opera Gala. 
http://www.taormina.it/july-7-9-madama-butterfly.html


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## sospiro (Apr 3, 2010)

Some photos from Casa Verdi and Verdi's tomb.









*Casa Verdi*









*Path to the crypt*









*Verdi's crypt*









*Inscription says:*

Next to the glorious body
of Giuseppe Verdi
Let us remember Margherita Barezzi
Sweet and gentle wife of his
In the first struggles of life
She made him the father of Igino and Virginia
Much-wanted and still mourned children.


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## Belowpar (Jan 14, 2015)

sospiro said:


> Some photos from Casa Verdi and Verdi's tomb.
> 
> View attachment 83338
> 
> ...


Thank you for these.

Somehow I'd never noticed that Strepponi was so totally ignored.


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## sospiro (Apr 3, 2010)

Belowpar said:


> Thank you for these.
> 
> Somehow I'd never noticed that Strepponi was so totally ignored.


No mention of her at all.

Wiki.



> Giuseppina Strepponi died after a long illness on 14 November that year at Sant'Agata, due to pneumonia. She was initially buried in Milan. With the death of Giuseppina, Verdi became a widower for the second time, and was once again tormented by the pain of losing one of the most important figures in his life. When Verdi died in 1901 he left instructions in his will to be buried next to Giuseppina, but he was buried in the main cemetery of Milan. The desire to see the couple together in the afterlife eventually led on 26 February 1901 to the transfer of both of their the bodies to the oratory of the Casa di Riposo in Milan, the retirement home for musicians which Verdi had created.


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## graziesignore (Mar 13, 2015)

Have we heard anything more about the closing of the Arena di Verona?


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## Cavaradossi (Aug 2, 2012)

sospiro said:


> Some photos from Casa Verdi and Verdi's tomb.


Was the Casa Verdi difficult to find? On our first day in Milan, we asked directions from an attendant at one of the art museums, she spent a good twenty minutes describing how to get there. I suspect it wasn't all that bad, but we decided we weren't up to it. By pure accident, we did stumble on the Hotel de Ville where Verdi passed away. The staff seemed accustomed to pilgrims wandering into the lobby.

Later in the same trip, I looked up from my dinner in Rome in the piazza in front of the Pantheon to see this plaque, commemorating the hotel where Mascagni drew his final breath:


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## Cavaradossi (Aug 2, 2012)

graziesignore said:


> Have we heard anything more about the closing of the Arena di Verona?


Just today in the Italian news it was reported that the Foundation that runs the Arena has voted to liquidate itself after the unions voted down an cost reduction agreement. It sounds like this summer's season will proceed (provided the unions don't strike), but the future is in question unless another managing entity steps in, perhaps a private one. I still can't tell how much of this is serious and how much is management vs labor posturing.

Verona: verso la liquidazione dell'Ente lirico. Tosi: Possibile azzeramento posti di lavoro - See more at: http://www.rainews.it/dl/rainews/articoli/Verona-posto-in-liquidazione-Ente-lirico-Tosi-possibile-azzeramento-posti-di-lavoro-Il-Consiglio-di-indirizzo-della-Fondazione-Arena-di-Verona-liquida-ente-lirico-93ba3f44-9975-48ac-ba66-f277e30e9a35.html


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## sospiro (Apr 3, 2010)

Cavaradossi said:


> Was the Casa Verdi difficult to find? On our first day in Milan, we asked directions from an attendant at one of the art museums, she spent a good twenty minutes describing how to get there. I suspect it wasn't all that bad, but we decided we weren't up to it.


Shame as it wasn't too difficult. I looked up the address on googlemap and then looked on the metro map for the nearest stop. I could see Casa Verdi from the Metro stop (Buonarroti)

https://goo.gl/maps/JThTovh5LoG2

http://italy4.me/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/karta-milan-metro.pdf



Cavaradossi said:


> By pure accident, we did stumble on the Hotel de Ville where Verdi passed away. The staff seemed accustomed to pilgrims wandering into the lobby.


Pilgrims is right! I love the fact that so many ordinary people in Milan are opera fans.



Cavaradossi said:


> Later in the same trip, I looked up from my dinner in Rome in the piazza in front of the Pantheon to see this plaque, commemorating the hotel where Mascagni drew his final breath:
> View attachment 83354


Cool! What a good find.


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## sospiro (Apr 3, 2010)

Cavaradossi said:


> Just today in the Italian news it was reported that the Foundation that runs the Arena has voted to liquidate itself after the unions voted down an cost reduction agreement. It sounds like this summer's season will proceed (provided the unions don't strike), but the future is in question unless another managing entity steps in, perhaps a private one. I still can't tell how much of this is serious and how much is management vs labor posturing.
> 
> Verona: verso la liquidazione dell'Ente lirico. Tosi: Possibile azzeramento posti di lavoro - See more at: http://www.rainews.it/dl/rainews/articoli/Verona-posto-in-liquidazione-Ente-lirico-Tosi-possibile-azzeramento-posti-di-lavoro-Il-Consiglio-di-indirizzo-della-Fondazione-Arena-di-Verona-liquida-ente-lirico-93ba3f44-9975-48ac-ba66-f277e30e9a35.html


Very sad

http://www.ansa.it/english/news/lif...ion_57be8cb7-a7f9-4f6b-b752-cac49bafb6c4.html


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## Cavaradossi (Aug 2, 2012)

*La Traviata in Cagliari, Sardinia*

Hi folks, apologies for the long absence. In a misguided policy to cut access to streaming music sites, my employer has banned access to all music sites, including this one. 

Anyway, lots of catching up to do, so I'll start with one of the most interesting stops on this year's summer opera trip: the Teatro Lirico di Cagliari, the home town opera of the Sardinia's largest city. We saw La Traviata in the middle of a generous six week, fifteen performance run featuring three different casts. I presume this speaks to the depth of the opera base in Sardinia and perhaps marketing to holiday makers on the mainland. While the house was not sold out on the stifling Wednesday night we were there, it was nevertheless well attended with an engaged and lively crowd. The opera house itself dates from the early 1990's, modern, elegant, and comfortably air conditioned. (Surprisingly, though complimentary bottled water was served at intermission, there was no bar in the house but a few could be found down the street).

The intriguing, lush, _belle epoque_ production, a shared staging premiered in Dusseldorf, had us talking well into the following day for its attention to detail. It combined faithfulness to the libretto (such as the rarely seen dinner table called for in the opening scene) and any number of original, thought-provoking details: During the overture, Violetta and staff are seen fretting at the window over the late arrival of her guests, suggesting that her social standing was already precarious. In the final scene, Dr. Grenville shows up clad in his carnival costume obviously intending to return to the party in the streets. And, most intriguingly, Act II plays out in a sun room overlooking a snow covered-orchard, begining with a playful Alfredo lobbing a snowball at the window - putting the events of the opera on a real calendar.

Our outstanding Violetta was Czech soprano Zuzana Markova, her natural vivaciousness paired well with Act I Violetta, her period gown given a bit of edge with a skirt slit up to there. Alfredo was Emanuele D'Aguanno, who took a while to warm up to the role but finished strong. He also seemed to be made up much dowdier than his dashing head shot in the program, portraying a bit of a country bumpkin far out of his league in Violetta's salon. Make-up couldn't completely the youth of our 30 year old Germont, Ernesto Petti, but his sensitive baritone voice effectively conveyed a father's suffering. I'm usually not a fan of sing-alongers, but I couldn't help but be touched by the elderly gentlemen in the row ahead of us who mumbled the words of _"Di Provenza..."_ as he dabbed tears from his eyes.

Far from a provincial backwater, this is appears to be a lively, well supported house as evidenced by their fall schedule, ten performances each of Trovatore, Falstaff, and a Rossini rarity. I'm also looking forward that much more to their production of Respighi's _La Campana Sommersa_ which is coming New York City Opera in Spring of 2017.


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## sospiro (Apr 3, 2010)

Cavaradossi said:


> Hi folks, apologies for the long absence. In a misguided policy to cut access to streaming music sites, my employer has banned access to all music sites, including this one.
> 
> Anyway, lots of catching up to do, so I'll start with one of the most interesting stops on this year's summer opera trip: the Teatro Lirico di Cagliari, the home town opera of the Sardinia's largest city. We saw La Traviata in the middle of a generous six week, fifteen performance run featuring three different casts. I presume this speaks to the depth of the opera base in Sardinia and perhaps marketing to holiday makers on the mainland. While the house was not sold out on the stifling Wednesday night we were there, it was nevertheless well attended with an engaged and lively crowd. The opera house itself dates from the early 1990's, modern, elegant, and comfortably air conditioned. (Surprisingly, though complimentary bottled water was served at intermission, there was no bar in the house but a few could be found down the street).
> 
> ...


Welcome back Cavaradossi and thanks for a great review!

Shame about your access being removed. 

I always look forward to reading your reviews as your attention to detail is superb. This Traviata sounds like it was a real treat.


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## Don Fatale (Aug 31, 2009)

Looks like I forgot to post a report of my Rome stopover in June, so I'll add to this thread some thoughts.
27th June, Cosi Fan Tutte concert performance at the Santa Cecilia concert hall. This is my favourite Mozart opera, and possibly the only one where I truly understand the plot.
28th June, Linda di Chamounix at the Teatro dell'Opera di Roma. A second-tier Donizetti, with some pretty nice tunes and an obligation 'mad scene.

Firstly the concert hall. It's in a purpose-built complex (3 halls) in a northern suburb, on the site of Rome's 1960 Olympic park. It's another ghastly and unlikeable creation of the architect Renzo Piano, but at least this monstrosity isn't spoiling the centre of a city.

The performance was led by Semyon Bychkov - essential a warm-up for Covent Garden in October. Alas he's bringing the ladies with him (Corrine Winters and Angela Brower), when the gents were the best of the performers. Paolo Fanale's exquisite Un'auro Amorosa was the undoubted highlight, eliciting great applause from audience and orchestra alike. This was an absolute old-style concert performance, no surtitles, no hint of constumes or acting.

On to the Teatro dell'Opera. First thing to notice is all the firemen standing around the lobby area. Perhaps Linda di Chamounix somehow features incredible stage pyrotechnics? Alas it's just symptomatic of the ongoing overmanning and union issues that stop this company making progress.

How strange that the capital of the nation most associated with opera should have an opera house and company that feels almost provincial. I paid just €45 for my stalls ticket. American Jessica Pratt in the title role hits some pretty high notes and delivers the kind of thrills I want from Donizetti. Who cares about the flaky storyline. BTW She's the Met's upcoming Queen of the Night.

In summary, Rome certainly isn't a musical mecca, but with its vast array of tourist accommodation, it's good value for money, with great tourist activities to fill the days between the musical evenings.

http://www.operaroma.it/en/
http://www.santacecilia.it/en/


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## Sloe (May 9, 2014)

Don Fatale said:


> How strange that the capital of the nation most associated with opera should have an opera house and company that feels almost provincial.


When most of the popular Italian opera had their première Rome was not capital of all of Italy.
Italy is also not as centralised as other countries.


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## russetvelvet (Oct 14, 2016)

Talking about opera houses, do they also offer standing room tickets as Vienna Staatsoper does?


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## Don Fatale (Aug 31, 2009)

You revived this thread to ask a non-related question. Vienna isn't in Italy.

(Yes, you'll need to be there in the morning queue).


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## Don Fatale (Aug 31, 2009)

Now that this thread has been revived I should post some opera travel details of Sicily.

Catania and Palermo have similar 'stagione' seasons. i.e. 1 opera per month for 7-8 performances. Each house is also used for ballet and concerts, although these are unlikely to abut onto your opera dates.

The forum's very own dongiovanni and I have just met for a weekend with these two cities. They are linked by trains (old and not frequent), however the very regular bus service (2h 40m) is more convenient. €13.50 per journey.

Online ticket booking services are available for both houses. €50-€60 will usually get you a good seat. €20 will get you in the gallerias. Accommodation is plentiful and very good value during opera seasons.

Taormina open air Greek theatre (spectacular) has a very limited summer opera offering, but is worth considering. See belowpar's experience earlier in this thread.

Messina in the north east of the island has an opera house although performances here are sporadic. 

You'll find Sicily as safe as anywhere, although the usual common-sense tourist vigilence should be taken.


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## russetvelvet (Oct 14, 2016)

Thank you very much for your reply, Don Fatale. I just read it now.

We arrived in Roma today and asked at the ticket office of Teatro dell'Opera about the standing room tickets for the Tosca performance tomorrow evening (18th). They told us politely that no standing tickets are offered, and all seats are sold out. We then checked on their official website and found two last vacancies at 115 and 105 euro respectively. Perhaps we dressed too casually and "touristily" they consider the price to be too steep for someone who just wants to dabble in the culture. Well, it indeed is too expensive for us anyway, at least if both want to go.

Is there any other way we can get cheaper entry, such as scalpers? Otherwise I'll just let my fiancée go as she loves Tosca just a bit more than I do;-)


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## Pugg (Aug 8, 2014)

russetvelvet said:


> Thank you very much for your reply, Don Fatale. I just read it now.
> 
> We arrived in Roma today and asked at the ticket office of Teatro dell'Opera about the standing room tickets for the Tosca performance tomorrow evening (18th). They told us politely that no standing tickets are offered, and all seats are sold out. We then checked on their official website and found two last vacancies at 115 and 105 euro respectively. Perhaps we dressed too casually and "touristily" they consider the price to be too steep for someone who just wants to dabble in the culture. Well, it indeed is too expensive for us anyway, at least if both want to go.
> 
> Is there any other way we can get cheaper entry, such as scalpers? Otherwise I'll just let my fiancée go as she loves Tosca just a bit more than I do;-)


Who said that romance is dead, bless you .


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## Don Fatale (Aug 31, 2009)

russetvelvet said:


> Thank you very much for your reply, Don Fatale. I just read it now.
> 
> We arrived in Roma today and asked at the ticket office of Teatro dell'Opera about the standing room tickets for the Tosca performance tomorrow evening (18th). They told us politely that no standing tickets are offered, and all seats are sold out. We then checked on their official website and found two last vacancies at 115 and 105 euro respectively. Perhaps we dressed too casually and "touristily" they consider the price to be too steep for someone who just wants to dabble in the culture. Well, it indeed is too expensive for us anyway, at least if both want to go.
> 
> Is there any other way we can get cheaper entry, such as scalpers? Otherwise I'll just let my fiancée go as she loves Tosca just a bit more than I do;-)


I sympathize, and salute your chivalry. Not many of us have the money to do everything we'd like. Rome opera is nice, but if your tour includes other cities, perhaps that money could better be spent elsewhere.

Where are you planning to go? I and the other folks here would be happy to advise.

Just checked online... Fra Diavolo tomorrow (19th). You can see Toscas anywhere, but this one is relatively rare (and is tuneful). Seems to be tickets at most prices.


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